Category Archives: La Gomera

“Uncle Tom” an Bord

The time had come, keeping one's word, I in December 2012 have given a human, with whom I on a racing yacht of Gran Canaria across the Atlantic to St. Lucia had sailed. We are talking about “Uncle Tom” from England. Katja and I have spent the last year shortly after the beginning of our trip several weeks at Ann and Tom in Felixstow / Suffolk. A beautiful time, in which we have closed the two very into our hearts.

On Monday at 12:30 landed the plane on time in Tenerife and against 13:30 we were with Uncle Tom together aboard our SUMMER. Tom has long had to do with his life boats and sailed almost everything, which has a mast and floats. Ann and Tom have just been a busy parade behind, to live closer to your children and numerous grandchildren. Another good reason, to spend a few days relaxing on the sunny Canary Islands with us.
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On Wednesday at 8:45 we have cast off the lines in San Miguel and applied course in San Sebastian / La Gomera. The sailing developed as recently as often: only little wind, then no wind and 12 Miles from Gomera there again 30 Knots of wind and wave tidy “on the ears”. It was once interesting for me to see, as it looks, wenn der Steuermann eine Dusche nach der anderen einstecken muss 🙂 Normalerweise war es ja meistens ich, was wet. However, the role change also had other advantages. Mit jeder heftigen Dusche von Tom lernten wir auch ein neues Schimpfwort kennen 🙂 Keine Sprachschule würde diese in ihr Programm aufnehmen!

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On Friday we took the car in the west of the island to Valle. The roads are really excellent and very curvy. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to drive faster than Katja allowed me. If the tires started to “whimper” like a puppy, hatte ich schon Ihre Knie im Kreuz 🙁 Naja, das 24H-Rennen ist ja glücklicherweise schon gebucht 🙂 Derweil Katja den botanischen Obstgarten von Valle besuchte, Tom and I were on us, the “Alexander von Humboldt II” to visit from Bremerhaven. The ship was 2011 known as the sister ship of the Becks advertising “Alexander von Humboldt” built. That's the ship with the green sails and the song “Sail away…live your dreams….”

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What a coincidence! Aboard the Tall Ship I discovered a man, the known seemed to me because of its exceptional hairstyle. It was actually Frank Mestemacher, I ago 2 Years in the course “Leak and fire fighting” have met on the Baltic Sea. Frank has stayed with me as a real sailor in the traditional sense memories. He wrote the book “Celestial navigation” written and is a master at dealing with the sextant, the highest art of navigation. Frank could also remember me and so he invited us, his “World of traditional ships” know each other better. Since he was in Tom come to the right address, because he has previously worked for several years at a shipyard and built wooden boats.

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The Ship “Alexander von Humboldt II” was only 2011 newly built and spends the winter in the Canary Islands and the summer in the Baltic Sea. A maximum 78 People can be accommodated on board. The team consists of volunteers and paying guests. However, such a ship is also extremely expensive to maintain and so, at least a portion of the costs are covered. And the fan base gets bigger every year!

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We wanted Frank of course not interfere too long at his watch and gave us just under 2 Hours then passed again by board. The sailors will take in the next week to Lisbon and then move back to the Baltic Sea. We thanked him very much for the great leadership and wish Frank all the best for the journey.

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Of course we did not go, ohne ein handsigniertes Exemplar von Franks Buch zu erwerben 🙂 Wenig später trafen wir dann auch Katja wieder, which also had a nice trip. In the Garden, she has visited, they had learned a lot over the Canarian flora. For Example, that the widespread Kaketen a particular concern lice is grown, from which then the red dye is obtained for CAMPARI. Yummy, delicious! Heute war ein guter Tag für uns alle 🙂

Canarian sailing weather like in a picture book

We had even waited until Saturday, so that we would have quiet sailing weather for the trip to Tenerife. We were able to further postpone our departure but not, because for the next Monday we were expecting love visiting the SUMMER. Our "Uncle Tom". We were going to personally pick up from airport.

Before we loswarfen the lines in Tazacorte, We take this opportunity two kilos freshly caught tuna to buy directly from fishermen in the Marina. That would certainly be missing us in Tenerife, just like the many wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables.

About nine clock we were traveling as planned at sea. In bright sunshine, the wind in the sails hip cover the island had to wait a little to be. But then again it was, as if someone had flipped a switch. We could see far ahead of the white foam on the waves and refften our sailing time a strong. As it turned out a short time later, it was a very good decision. In the next few hours continuously ruled wind strength 7-8 with 28 to 35 Node. In some gusts of wind meter even showed up 42 Knoten an. The sea was boiling and had an unpleasant short, constructed steep wave. Dietmar had "gentlemen like" taken over the helm and was washed through soon to his underwear with salt water. Later he changed then its fair-weather clothing for months for the first time again against oilskins a. The need but really no one! I had folded me in the cockpit in the only dry corner to save space and was excited about the effect of Scorpoderm-patch against seasickness. Even if the weather conditions did not inspire me particularly, seekrank wurde so ich wenigstens nicht 🙂

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Two nautical miles from our destination Valle La Gomera was the nightmare again just as quickly by, as he had come.

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We were looking for a quiet anchorage and enjoyed after rough day at sea for supper fresh tuna from La Palma as Cappachio. After a hard day of sailing before ten clock went on the SUMMER off all the lights. After all, tomorrow it would probably be similar to strenuous.

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Sunday started exactly the same way before Saturday. Even from land cover out we could see the whitecaps of partially breaking waves south of Gomera see. So we refften mainsail and jib and prepared ourselves for the next salt water showers. Which could then not long in coming and talked the next two hours with up to 37 Node on your toes. Then suddenly there was lull. Sub machine continuously dried our SUMMER slowly back and made it everywhere thick salt crust. So a mess, poor SUMMER! But the ship should not remain dry until Marina San Miguel. As soon as we drove around the southern tip of Tenerife around, we got back strongly suggesting the nose. We fought the last ten miles back against increasingly strong wind and waves ever higher. All "Three" (SUMMER and we) had really sick and tired. The water is just not hot enough, the salt water showers to enjoy a welcome refreshment.

In the port our first Summer got an extensive freshwater shower, they had earned honestly and in the last two days. Have as much wind and wave also buffeted Regardless us, our SUMMER has always done a great job and gave us a good feeling.

The rest of the evening we spent with our dear French friends Annick and Louis of the SY TAMARIN. Unfortunately we already left the two of them tomorrow to Lanzarote. But our paths will cross again in the coming months. Wir haben uns für Juni/Juli auf den Azoren zum Dinner verabredet 🙂

One night during the spin cycle

Something unmotivated we started on Tuesday at ten clock on the path towards Valle, on the west side of La Gomera. In the port of San Miguel there was still no wind, but after an hour of driving under engine we could set sail and had passable Southern Wind. For me, it was a quiet day of sailing without a lot of rocking. A beautiful home!

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Four times crossed our path and pilot whales once we saw a large school dolphins. Just before sunset we reached our destination. Unfortunately we have to, that the bay to anchor in south wind and strong swell offers no special protection against Valle.

Except for a boat all other sailors had taken shelter directly behind the breakwater. Unfortunately, I could not convince Dietmar and on the wall to create. So our anchor a short time later fell on the sandy bottom of the bay and was certainly buried shortly thereafter. Only from rest in the ship could be no question. Our SUMMER lay across the swell and swung wildly from right to left. In each cubbyhole doses were, Pots and books rearranged and made a surprising amount of noise. My "sea-weaned" stomach was all too much. As a precaution I took a trip times tablet and lay down on the couch in the living room. Dietmar was initially not sure, whether a dinner that evening would be at all a good idea. But after a while he made but at the stove and warmed the Chilli con carne on the weekend.

The night was so restless as feared, only towards morning waves calmed in the bay. I felt the morning but, as if I had spent the night in a washing machine during the spin cycle. Nevertheless, we went around eight Clock anchor on towards Tazacorte on La Palma. Soon, the sun was shining and it was warm on the boat. By the early afternoon we sailed with light winds quite quickly towards our goal, then the wind died and we motorten towards Tazacorte.

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Shortly before the southern tip of La Palma again crossed our path and dolphins accompanied us a piece.

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Only ten miles lay ahead of us and we were hoping against five clock to reach the port. But the wind made us a spanner in the works. Within a short time it was blowing against us, almost thirty knots and SUMMER stamped violently in the short, steep wave.

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Soon the entire deck was flooded with salt water and Dietmar got behind the wheel and one or the other of splash from.

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That was probably nothing again with a comfortable sailing. With difficulty we fight our way down the coast and reached only after six clock the protective harbor.

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The sail Weather in the Canaries has not done to us. The winds here in the winter months can be fickle and changeable. Between slowdown and high winds often only an hour. Now we were happy first, to have arrived and were looking forward to a quiet night in the harbor. That evening the kitchen remained on the SUMMER cold and we ate quite outstanding, fresh fish right on the harbor in a small restaurant. Before we could admire the capture of a fisherman, with the aid of a forklift four wonderful tuna (about 80 -100 Pounds per fish) auslud at the harbor. The wind and the wave was not a walk of determined out there at sea.

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No longer alone

Heute Morgen wachten wir auf und plötzlich war alles anders 🙂 Naja, maybe this is now something exaggerated, but with the tranquility it was over for the time. At the front of the harbor wall had a huge almost 300 Moored meter Crusaders. It was the Tui - "Mein Schiff 3" 2500 Passengers on board.

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We we decided after breakfast quickly to look into the distance and to make our last trip to Playa de Santiago. The road through the mountains was now in glorious sunshine even more impressive and beautiful than on cloudy and rainy Wednesday.

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Near Playa de Santiage has the only, larger resort and the island golf course. The place itself was but just as beautiful and tranquil, as we had hoped. In the harbor small fishing boats and a few small yachts at anchor or at the Mooring. Here, however, we did not want to come over with the SUMMER sure, because the threshold even got quite uncomfortable even at this beautiful and calm day in the harbor.

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Along the beach and in the marketplace invited several restaurants and bars with their tables in the sun to linger. Since we could not resist, as so often, and ordered two refreshing Shandy.

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After this short break we followed along the road and passed the airport. The terminal building looked new and somehow unused. Nowhere on the site we were able to discover an airplane. Here the mass tourism had not yet been introduced in any case 

Continue towards the island means the landscape changed and it was hilly and green. Not only goats were here on the way, After some time I even saw a donkey. The course should also be photographed. I carefully climbed through the Botany, to come to a suitable position photo. Quick donkey had discovered me. But he did not occur as expected the flight to, but he quickly turned around and moved screaming at me to. Dem war wohl langweilig 🙂 Gut, that he was tied for the guy I would probably not gotten rid of so easily

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The nearest major town on our map turned out in reality to be so small, we decided, inserted here no stop and go right back to San Sebastian. Today we set out to, to eat in the small French restaurant, which had been placed us from the Department of JOY OF LIVE recommended;.

But first we wanted to give our rental car back. The garage of the lender was right in the old town, in the moment are quite a few sites. After we had traversed almost all kinds of roads, we finally stood before the entrance of the garage. Unfortunately, we arrived in the middle of the siesta, but the car we found the safe side from there. Who knows, how long we would go next time in the circle. Within walking distance of the car rental was certainly very easy to reach.

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After a coffee and a stroll through the city then we gave the keys back and even took a short detour to the beach, before returning to the SUMMER. Meanwhile, peace was again has returned in the city and the last crusaders rushed to the harbor, so as not to miss their ship.

So in the evening we had the old town again for us. The French restaurant was even better than we had imagined it to be. Although the young man had only one card with a small selection but the dishes, it offers, are exclusive and very tasty. After we had shared four tapas, was just enough space for a small dessert and a delicious cappuccino (finally back with real cream).

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Everywhere bananas

As almost all the Canary Islands, La Gomera are everywhere, where it is possible, Cultivated bananas. Is beautiful, that the bananas do not grow here as in Tenerife behind films or networks, but the plantations are open everywhere on the terraces of the mountains.

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Today we led our way north through the valley of Hermigua, probably the most abundant and productive valley on the island. But not only banana wine and other Ostsorten up here quite outstanding.

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At the end of the valley on the edge of a small beach, we found right on the water, the remains of the old “Bootsdavits”. Here the bananas were at the beginning of the century loaded onto ships to England. With the construction of the port in San Sebastian davit was no longer needed. The metal structure was dismantled and sold, only the walls and pillars reminiscent of that era.

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We went over Agulo Vallehermoso. Both villages are already one of the larger on the island, but are rather tiny and cozy in our eyes. Unfortunately the weather was uncomfortable only, the left turn our walks shorter and shorter with strong winds and gray clouds. In the car, it was back to warm and protected. Due to its location in the Atlantic prevails in the Canary Islands almost all year northeast wind, the often stormy fails in this season and many, has rainy clouds in luggage.

Nevertheless, we made a trip to the seaside, because in our card Parc Maritimo was drawn. What we had expected just below, I am also not entirely clear in retrospect. Aber hinter diesem Begriff verbirgt sich nichts weiter als ein gewöhnliches Schwimmbad 🙂 Wieder was gelernt.

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As a last stop of our trip today we had planned Alojera, a village on the northwest side. At the deep black lava were really only a handful of small houses, but there was a small restaurant, where we enjoyed an early dinner. Besieged by numerous cats we were glad when we had succeeded, to eat the prawns without blackheads. Potatoes and mushrooms did not seem to inspire the band as. So they moved on to the next guests and tried their luck as.

On the way back we found, that we had to keep the fuel gauge of the car does not pay enough attention in the eye and "bone dry" the tank just before standing. Although the way to La Gomera are not so far, one should remember, that there is only one of the inhabitants adapted and thus limited number of stations. Good, dass diese sechs Stück auf unserer Karte auch eingezeichnet waren 🙂 So fuhren wir zurück nach Vallehermoso. The gas station we found immediately, Unfortunately, this was even just refueled. Well, still better than closed. So we waited patiently until the tank truck was finished and completed our own tank again brimming with gasoline on.

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Relaxed we cruised back to San Sebastian and let the evening end comfortably in a video.

La Gomera - Welcome to Paradise

Das hatten wir nicht erwartet 🙂 Nachdem wir uns nach der „weiten Seereise“ am nächsten Tag etwas akklimatisiert hatten, we went on a discovery tour.

La Gomera to El Hiero, the smallest of the Canary Islands. Almost circular, it has a diameter of 25 Kilometers and is only 24.000 Inhabited people. We are having our SUMMER in the port of San Sebastian, the island's capital. We were already noticed when we arrived, that no hotel facilities defaced the coast. In contrast to the large islands here the ratio of population-tourist is very pleasant. It fit namely a maximum of 6400 Visitors to the small island. The airport is tiny and most likely to travel by ferry, arriving several times a day in San Sebastian.

So we walked once on the waterfront and along the beach. In a beautiful park right on the water of the Torre del Conde is, a defensive tower 15. Century. Then we ended up in the old town with narrow streets and pretty Canarian houses. Many small businesses were also no shopping to be desired and Bars, Restaurants and cafés invited you to relax.

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But first we took care of a car, as the buses on the island (it subvert whole seven bus routes) but were not as frequent travelers. Dear first we wanted to be independent. We once had back luck. In just under two hours our car was available. Finally, we could treat ourselves with a good conscience a coffee in the sun. But first we made a quick trip to the tourist office and received a free German guide. Now nothing could go wrong more.

Highly Dietmar regret there is no highway to La Gomera and the roads do not charge an excessive speeds. But you can always go sporty, as I discovered a little later. Since I was almost "carsick" after a short time in the rocking. Hoffentlich wird das nicht die nächsten drei Tage so weiter gehen 🙂

For our first trip we had "Valle Grand Ray" chose us in the west of the island. We were hoping, perhaps to meet you here on the SY MELODY, had there been a stopover on the way to La Palma yesterday.

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Our route took us through the national park "Garajonay", located in the center of the island in 1000 to 1400 Meters of altitude is above sea level and around 4000 Has square meters. Up in the mountains the temperature dropped quickly to seven degrees and in the dense clouds raining. So we did not have to think twice when we saw a hitchhiker on the roadside, wanted in our direction further. With his pink shirt and Floor Length (!!!!) Dreadlocks he looked out from some adventurous, but turned out to be nice and peaceful contemporary from Lake Constance, had ended up before a long time on the island.

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In Valle we made our lunch right on the harbor in a tiny fish restaurant. The tapas were excellent and the price once again "frightening" low. Here the water was wonderfully warm and the seven degrees of the mountains were quickly forgotten.

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After dinner we went for a dinner walk under the high and dangerously steep rocks of the cliff along. On the warning signs was clearly read in all languages ​​"passage banned because of falling rocks! Passieren nur auf eigene Gefahr“ Aber einen kleinen Dachschaden haben wir ja sowieso schon und blieben auch vor Schlimmeren bewahrt 🙂

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At the end of the road we found a finca with a beautiful garden. Here, a group had settled on "Blumenkonder" from the '68 many years ago, and has been living the alternative life in their community and way of life. An der Eingangstür hing auf jeden Fall ein aktueller Wochenplan von Meditationen und Workshops aus 🙂 Da wollten wir nicht weiter stören 🙂

Further inland could be an exotic orchard with 160 visit different sorts of fruit and taste the different varieties of fruit. Sorry, but only on Tuesday and Friday, heute war aber Mittwoch 🙁 So haben wir aber einen schönen Grund, to come here once again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A big fish on a leash

The new year began just as well, as the old one had stopped. While we drank lazy after the strenuous holidays below deck coffee, we became aware of a couple on the web, made the images of our SUMMER. Very suspicious! Dietmar walked right out times, to go to the thing on the ground. A short time later we sat together on board with us and talked gorgeous. Peter and Manuela from the SY MELODY were only two of us lands away. They spend the winter always two months of your ETAP 37 in the Canary Islands. As an invitation to the New Year's coffee on the MELODY followed by a wine tasting at the SUMMER. Came as the friendly sailing colleague Falk aboard the MELODY, we found but actually every day a reason and an opportunity, to spend a little time together, while we were waiting for calmer weather.

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So also was already firmly, that we would both leave on Monday with the aim of La Gomera the Port of San Miguel. Although we wanted to San Sebastian and Peter and Manu Valle, aber immerhin 🙂

The Way to San Sebastian on La Gomera with 30 A very pleasant nautical miles, almost short day trip. We slept a little longer and started nine clock on the way. Before the port was still the wave of recent stormy days and rocked us initially by duly. Somehow it gave the impression, that there would be no beautiful crossing:-( But after a short time we sailed miss our target with wind and wave from astern. The sun came out again her wonderful power and soon we were both sitting in shorts in the cockpit. This fully compensated us for the wet and uncomfortable Silvestertörn.

The SY MELODY was started something from us. After some time we had but can significantly reduced the projection. Now she was turned towards Valle, as we continue to track ran towards San Sebastian. So we decided, Peter, To give Manu and Falk via VHF radio one last greeting on the way. But apparently our paths should not separate, rather we were even a short time later connected more closely. Because of an engine problem, the MELODY requested tug assistance and hung soon after with a stable and long towline safely moored at our Heckklampe on the starboard side. The maneuver had worked smoothly and our SUMMER towed the yacht without much trouble. So we put the remaining twelve nautical miles to San Sebastian under engine 5,2 Node back speed. On the hook behind us we had the biggest fish, den Dietmar jemals an der Angel hatte 🙂

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In the harbor entrance were like the MELODY but again the hook and she made the last meters from its own resources. But now cause research was announced. Already on the water and had Peter Falk tries out together, why hardly any cooling water came out of the exhaust manifold out. After the basic causes of the problem were excluded, had to dig a little deeper probably the gentlemen. After about an hour the problem was then solved. Before the heat exchanger of the engine NINE broken impeller blades had the water flow stopped almost completely. The maintenance of the machine Peter had always been commissioned and relies on a clean execution of work. It is not uncommon, that the rubber wings of an impeller cancel but not to remove them from the cooling circuit is an absolute disgrace. An impeller has a total of only 5 Wing and the presumption is very close, that the remains of at least 3 originate different impellers. Dietmar was seriously shocked glad about the lousy mechanic and Peter, to have preserved their machines from certain heat death. Falk had so situated right in his assumption, that the problem would be to find the heat exchanger.

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The machine and thus the evening was saved and our reliable SUMMER had earned an invitation to dinner. About seven clock we headed to the capital, who joined directly to the Marina. Everything was still Christmas lights on the main square and a large open tent was set up, in which already had gathered quite a lot of children. In Spain it is tradition, that the Christmas gifts are brought only by the "Three Kings" on the night of January sixth. So why wait so many little newcomers impatiently for the parade with music, would end before this tent here. No 100 Meters we were already in the middle.

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First came the musicians, followed by many life-size toy figures and finally the ambassadors from the East came. Beautiful costumes and authentic style riding on camels, attracted the kings past us.

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Well as we could expect no further Christmas, we search for a nice restaurant and ordered for the entire troupe fish fed. The food was outstanding. Thanks again for the kind invitation to Peter and Manu. Wir helfen immer wieder gern 🙂 Leider wurde der lustige Abend durch einen DJ, who had built his system from a neighboring shop, ended earlier than we would have liked. Before dessert we left the restaurant on the run from the monotonous droning techno. But without something sweet the night should not end. In the marketplace learned the Canarian specialty "Barraquito" (Wikipedia: Specialty of the Canary Islands Tenerife, La Gomera La Palma und, served in a glass and consists of three layers: Evaporated milk, Espresso with a dash of liqueur or Tía María and a piece of lemon peel and frothed milk, which will be topped with cinnamon.) kennen und lieben 🙂